Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
