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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.